Cold weather? Beets don’t mind—they actually get sweeter after a light frost.
If you live where spring’s unpredictable or fall gets frosty fast, picking the right cold-hardy beet variety is key.
The wrong one might bolt early or stay tiny.
This guide breaks down why some beets thrive in the cold, which varieties to plant, and how to grow them right.
Ready to keep your garden going when others call it quits? Let’s dig in.
Understanding Cold-Hardiness in Beetroots: Why Some Love the Chill
Before we dive into which beet varieties love cold weather, let’s break down why some beets thrive when the temps drop.
It’s not just about surviving frost—it’s about still growing and even tasting better when it’s chilly.
Here’s what makes a beet cold-hardy:
1. Cold-tough genes
Some beet varieties were bred to handle the cold better. It’s in their DNA.
They don’t freeze up when the weather turns—they just keep doing their thing underground.
2. They grow fast
Beets with short “days to maturity” (aka DTM) are quick finishers.
That means you can plant them late in the season and still harvest before a deep freeze hits—or they can bounce back fast after a cold snap.
Think of it like a sprinter vs. a marathon runner. Cold-hardy beets are built for speed.
3. Frost = sweet upgrade
Cold beets taste better. Why? Because when temps drop, the plant turns its stored starches into sugars to protect itself.
Basically, beets make their own natural antifreeze—and you get a sweeter root. Win-win.
4. Deep roots = stable growth
Some cold-hardy varieties grow thick, deep roots that help them stay stable in firm, cold soil.
That root strength also helps them reach nutrients when other plants are struggling.
Top Cold-Hardy Beetroot Varieties for Your Garden
Not all beets can handle frost, but these varieties? Total pros.
They don’t just survive—they grow well, taste better, and won’t bail on you when temps drop. Here are three cold-hardy beets worth planting.
1. ‘Detroit dark red’ (classic & reliable)
This heirloom is the “comfort food” of beet varieties—simple, reliable, and always shows up.
It handles cold like a champ, grows in almost any soil, and is perfect for planting again and again through the season. Great for first-timers.
Quick facts:
- Round, uniform roots
- Deep red flesh
- Ready in 55–60 days
- Stores well after harvest
Best for:
Gardeners who want a solid, no-drama beet with sweet roots and great storage life.
2. ‘Boro’ (high performance & disease resistant)
‘Boro’ is a modern F1 hybrid that’s basically beetroot with armor.
It grows fast, doesn’t freak out when the weather changes, and shrugs off most diseases. Cold springs? No problem. It rarely bolts.
Quick facts:
- Smooth, round roots
- Dark red with clean internal rings
- Disease-resistant
- 55–60 days to maturity
Best for:
Anyone planting in weird spring weather or cooler climates. Super reliable if you want a stress-free harvest.
3. ‘Cylindra’ / ‘Formanova’ (unique shape, easy slicing)
This one stands out with its long, sausage-shaped root. But it’s not just about looks.
‘Cylindra’ is cold-tough and still sweet after a frost. Plus, the shape makes it easy to slice—no weird lumps or uneven cuts.
Quick facts:
- Long, slender, dark red roots
- Smooth texture, easy to peel
- 55–65 days to maturity
Best for:
Pickling, roasting, or any recipe that needs even beet slices. Also great if you want something different that still handles cold like a pro.
4. ‘Early wonder’ (fast & frost tolerant)
This variety grows fast. Like, really fast. It’s great for short seasons or getting a head start in early spring before the weather decides what it’s doing.
It handles light frost like a pro, and the greens? Totally edible and super tasty.
Quick facts:
- Flattened globe roots
- Deep red color
- Ready in 45–50 days
- Good for roots and greens
Best for:
Quick harvests, early spring planting, and gardeners who want beets and leafy greens in one go.
5. ‘Bull’s blood’ (ornamental & cold-tolerant greens)
‘Bull’s Blood’ is grown more for its deep red leaves than its roots.
The leaves stay sweet and crisp even after a frost, making it perfect for cold-season salads or microgreens.
Roots are edible too—just harvest them young before they get stringy.
Quick facts:
- Super dark maroon leaves
- Small, round roots
- 50–60 days to maturity
Best for:
Leaf lovers, salad growers, and anyone who wants their garden to look extra fancy in fall.
6. ‘Winterkeeper’ / ‘lutz green leaf’ (large & storage-friendly)
This heirloom grows big, like “one beet feeds the whole family” big. It keeps growing into late fall and still stays sweet. You can store it all winter without it turning woody or weird. Just know it takes its time to mature.
Quick facts:
- Large, round roots
- Red skin (sometimes orangey)
- Green tops
- Takes 80–90 days
Best for:
Serious gardeners who want big harvests and beets they can store through the winter. You’ll need a longer cool season to pull this one off.
7. ‘Chioggia’ (striking stripes, good cold performance)
This Italian heirloom is all about style. Cut it open and you’ll see red-and-white candy cane stripes.
It also grows fine in cold weather and gets sweeter after a frost. Not just a pretty face.
Quick facts:
- Flattened globe shape
- Red and white striped flesh
- 60–65 days to maturity
Best for:
Chefs, foodies, and anyone who wants colorful roots that still handle chilly temps like a pro.
Cultivating Cold-Hardy Beetroots: Essential Growing Tips
Picking the right beet is only half the battle.
To get solid roots that survive the chill and taste amazing, you’ve got to grow them right.
Here’s how to make sure your cold-hardy beets don’t just survive—they thrive.
1. Prep your soil like you mean it
Cold-weather beets need soft, crumbly soil to grow strong roots.
If your soil is heavy or clumpy, roots won’t bulk up—they’ll twist or stall out.
- Loosen the soil: Dig down at least 12 inches. Use a fork—not a shovel—to avoid flipping the soil layers.
- Add compost or aged manure: This improves drainage and helps roots grow deeper.
- Check the pH: Beets like it between 6.0 and 7.5. If it’s off, they’ll struggle to absorb nutrients.
Tip: Do a soil test. Oregon State University says root crops especially need the right pH for nutrient uptake. No guessing—test it.
2. Time it right
Spring planting:
Plant 2–4 weeks before your last frost. Cold-hardy beets don’t mind the chill, and early planting gives them a head start.
Fall planting:
Sow seeds 6–8 weeks before your first hard frost. Cooler nights = sweeter roots. Seriously—frost makes them tastier.
3. Don’t skip thinning
Beet seeds are like surprise party packs—one “seed” might give you 2–4 plants.
If you don’t thin them out, they’ll crowd each other, and none of them will grow decent roots.
- Thin when 2–3 inches tall: Leave 3–4 inches between plants for most types. For big ones like ‘Winterkeeper,’ give 6 inches.
- Snip, don’t yank: Cut extra seedlings at the base. Pulling them can mess with nearby roots.
Bonus: Eat the thinnings. Beet greens = mini salad gold.
4. Keep water steady
Roots need moisture to grow right. Let the soil dry out, then overwater, and you’ll get cracked, split roots.
- Water regularly: Don’t let it dry out completely. Keep the soil evenly moist.
- Mulch it: Add straw, shredded leaves, or compost. Mulch keeps moisture in, blocks weeds, and helps control temperature swings.
5. Feed them right
You’re growing beets for the roots, not giant leaf hats.
So skip high-nitrogen fertilizers—they make plants go all-in on greens.
- Use balanced or phosphorus-boosted fertilizer: The middle number in N-P-K (like 5-10-5) helps with root growth.
- Compost is your friend: A thick layer at planting gives beets most of what they need.
6. Freeze coming? protect the roots
Cold-hardy doesn’t mean “invincible.” If temps drop below 20°F (-6°C) and stay there, your beets could freeze solid. Not fun.
- Cover up: Use straw, row covers, or cold frames if a deep freeze is coming.
- You’ll thank yourself: This can stretch your harvest into winter, even in colder zones.
Harvesting for Peak Flavor and Storage
Timing your beet harvest isn’t just about getting them out of the ground—it’s about getting them at their best.
Whether you’re after peak sweetness or long-term storage, a little planning goes a long way.
Let frost do the flavor work
If you want sweeter beets, leave them in the ground through a few light frosts.
When temps dip just below freezing, the plant turns starches into sugar to protect itself.
The result? Roots that taste way sweeter—like nature’s candy, no added sugar needed.
Size check: don’t go too big
Yeah, giant beets look impressive, but bigger isn’t always better.
- Best flavor = 1.5 to 3 inches wide.
- Go bigger than that and they might turn woody or bland.
- If you’re growing a storage variety like ‘Winterkeeper,’ bigger is okay—but still keep an eye on texture.
Grab those greens
Beet greens are edible and tasty—great in salads or sautéed like spinach. But don’t get greedy.
- Pick a few outer leaves at a time.
- Leave most of the greens alone so the plant keeps feeding the root.
- Too much leaf-picking = stunted beet.
How to store beets so they last for months
Cold-hardy beets are storage champs—if you handle them right.
Here’s the move:
- Twist or snip off greens, leave about 1 inch of stem.
- Don’t wash them. Just brush off loose soil.
- Store in a cool, dark, humid spot. A root cellar is ideal. If not, stick them in a perforated bag in the fridge.
- Keep them around 32–40°F (0–4°C) with high humidity (90–95%).
Pro tip: According to Cornell University, that setup keeps beets fresh for months without losing texture or flavor.
Final Take: Cold isn’t the end—it’s beet season
Frost doesn’t mean your garden’s done—especially if you’re growing beets.
Pick cold-hardy varieties, follow the right steps, and you’ll get sweet, rich roots deep into fall and even winter.
Forget the war analogies. Your beets don’t need a battlefield—just cool temps, the right care, and a little patience.
So lean into the cold and get ready to pull some seriously tasty roots from the ground.
